Devilled Lamb Kidneys

• 4 very fresh lambs’ kidneys
• 2 Tbsp. flour mixed with a good pinch of salt and black pepper
• 1 oz. soft butter
• 0.5 tsp. cayenne pepper
• 0.5 tsp. mustard powder
• 1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tsp. anchovy paste or 2 anchovies, mashed
• 2 thick pieces of bread

Remove the suet from around the kidneys if necessary, along with the thin membrane that might still encase them. Slice in half laterally, so they retain their kidney shape, and use a good pair of scissors or a sharp knife to snip away the membranes that attach the white fatty core to the meat. Dust in the seasoned flour.

Mash the butter with the other ingredients (except the bread), and adjust to taste.

Get a small frying pan hot, then add the butter and turn down the heat to medium. Shake off the excess flour, then cook the kidneys for two and a half minutes on each side, doing them cut-side down first. Do not overcook them; they should still be a little pink on the inside.

Meanwhile, toast the bread, then scoop the kidneys onto the toast and pour the butter from the pan over. Serve.